Cruising Tahiti In Ha'i Style
(August 2001)
(Updated September 23, 2002)
Collectively, Tahiti refers to French
Polynesia's five archipelagos: the Society Islands, Marquesas,
Gambier Islands, Tuamotus, and Australs. Its exotic beauty has
inspired James Michener to write Bali Ha'i and Paul Gauguin
to paint masterpieces. Today, these French Polynesian islands remain
picture perfect with white-sand beaches, turquoise lagoons, and
jagged mountain peaks. Our seven-day Renaissance cruise was a great
way to sample some of the island's scenery (including that of
Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, and Bora Bora) and to experience
Polynesia's easygoing nature.
(Editor's note: Unfortunately,
Renaissance Cruises ceased operations in the wake of September 11.
However, P&O Princess Cruises has purchased the former Renaissance vessels
R3 and R4 and will begin sailing a similar itinerary as below starting December
24, 2002.)
Tahiti
Hailed as
the "island of love," Tahiti (the island), is the largest of the 115
Society Islands and is comprised of two extinct volcanoes. Past
volcanic activity has yielded dramatic mountains, lush foliage, and
exotic white-sand and black-volcanic beaches. Taking the road less
traveled in a 4x4 truck, we explored Tahiti's hidden wild side full
of secluded grottoes, shimmering waterfalls, and gushing streams.
When not exploring the Island's natural wonders, we were
visiting Papeete, the French Polynesian capital. Here, visitors will
see a lively and unique mix of French, Polynesian, and Chinese
cultures. Stroll beneath banyan trees and browse through the
sprawling Central Marketplace with stalls displaying exotic floral
arrangements and tempting fruits like coconuts, papayas, and
mangoes. The market is also a great place to purchase traditional
Tahitian products such as baskets and hand-carved wooden
tikis. After dark, the harbor area comes alive when the
roulettes (rolling food trailers) come out seducing locals
and visitors alike with its smells.
Ladies, go native and place a
fragrant tiare flower behind your ear (behind the right ear
if you're available, behind the left ear if you're taken, or behind
both ears if you're undecided)—just be careful that you don't place
it facing backwards because you could be offering an "invitation."
Flowers in place, spend a lively evening watching traditional
Polynesian dances. Women and men don grass skirts and colorful
traditional costumes while their hips thrash to a wild tempo from
drums, guitars, and vocals.
Other worthwhile sites to see in
Tahiti are Paul Gauguin museum, Arahoho Blowhole, Pointe Venus, and
Museum of Tahiti and the Islands.
Moorea
Just
12 miles across the Sea of the Moon from Tahiti, is Moorea with its
saw-toothed emerald vistas. Once the ring of an ancient volcano, the
surrounding jagged volcanic spires reach into the clouds, while lush
vegetation perfumed by gardenias blankets the slopes and valleys
below. The island's most famous landmark is known locally as the
"shark's tooth," but we recognize it as Bali Ha'i, made famous in
the musical South Pacific.
This paradise is where you
can truly haere maru, which means "take it easy" in
Polynesian. Or, you can don a mask and head out for a fabulous day
of snorkeling. We opted to spend a quiet afternoon on a motu
(private atoll) to picnic, snorkel, and feed the stingrays. To reach
the motu, we cruised along Moorea's scenic bays all the while being
serenaded by Polynesian men strumming on guitars and ukuleles. After
doing some snorkeling, we relaxed under the swaying palm trees,
while being treated to a coconut palm climbing show as we feasted on
traditional Polynesian fare and sipped hinanos (Tahitian
beer).
Huahine
Huahine is surrounded by a
protective mountainous reef and is made up of two volcanic mountain
ranges that have become their own islands: Huahine Nui (Big Huahine)
and Huahine Iti (Small Huahine). At low tide, you can wade from one
island to another. Sparsely populated, these islands have maintained
an authentic Polynesian feel by shunning
commercialization.
Our lovely guide Bernadette, whose
Polynesian face and mannerisms could have appeared in a Gauguin
canvas, extolled the virtues of Huahine's history. She explained
that the island is most known for its vanilla plantations, fishing
industry, and maraes (temples located in the small town of
Maeva).
We took a private covered catamaran tour around the
bay to snorkel and frolic on a motu again. Like a horizontal
waterslide, we were dropped at one end of a motu and rode the
currents through reefs and bommies (isolated patch reefs)
teeming with fish in a rainbow of colors. It was the ultimate in
escapism! Afterwards, we played Robinson Crusoe on a tiny motu while
lounging and admiring the
view.
Raiatea
Raiatea, meaning "clear sky" in
Polynesian, shares a coral reef and a protected lagoon with her
sister island, Tahaa. Legends say how the two islands were cut apart
by a mythical eel. Once known as "Sacred Havai’i," Raiatea used to
be the center of Tahitian royalty, religion, and culture. Today, its
main attraction is the massive Taputaputea marae, the largest and
most sacred site in Polynesia.
One of the nicest things about
Raiatea and Tahaa is that they remain "undiscovered" by most
visitors to French Polynesia. Beaches are scarce on both islands,
but they contain the best motus and snorkeling of all the islands we
visited. Our motu visit was festive with pareo wrapping
demonstrations.
Docked in Uturoa, Raitea's main port, we
joined a private catamaran canoe tour to visit a family-owned pearl
farm. There we learned how Tahiti's most prized souvenir, the black
pearl, comes to be. The pearl nucleus bead (made from the
mother-of-pearl of a Mississippi River mussel shell) is artificially
introduced into a shell before it is immersed in the sea again for
eighteen months to three years. Not surprisingly, after the lecture,
we were led to the farm's store (complete with credit card machine)
to purchase pearls.
Bora Bora
Located 160 miles northwest of
Tahiti, petite Bora Bora (only 20 miles in circumference) is
everyone's idea of a South Pacific paradise. With its emerald-green
hills and chameleon-like lagoons, it is easy to understand why.
The island's major community, Vaitape, is abundant with
shops and boutiques. We capped off our stay with a delicious dinner
at the infamous Bloody Marys, the island's "in" place to hang out.
Topped by a thatched roof and founded on a fine white-sand floor, it
was originally built by stagehands who worked on the 1977 movie,
Hurricane. Each evening, the daily catch by the local anglers
is displayed on ice. After an explanation of exactly what's
available, the host places your order directly with the
chef.
Jeep tours delve into the rugged interior to witness
gorgeous views of the island, ancient temples, and WWII relics. I
opted for the most spectacular way to see the island…overhead. My
15-minute helicopter ride did a broad sweep round the island, flying
so low over the reefs that we were able to see the rays and sharks
skimming through the water. At one point, the craft climbed up and
over the velvety green peaks, providing incredible views.
We
also took a guided wave runner tour around Bora Bora. There's
nothing like scooting through crystalline waters in a wave runner.
It is a great way to view the island up close and truly appreciate
the beauty at every turn.
On the Cruise
While
sailing around the islands, we discovered that French Polynesia not
only has exquisite beauty, but also a seductive ambiance. Passengers
on the cruise (myself included) got into the spirit of the islands
by wearing fresh flower leis and headpieces, and by wrapping
themselves in colorful native pareos (popular souvenir cloth
wraps).
Our cruise ended in Papeete, where Renaissance
arranges for guests to spend a leisurely afternoon at the lovely
Sheraton Hotel Tahiti before boarding the eight-hour flight back to
Los Angeles. Blissfully, we whiled away our last afternoon relaxing
at the gorgeous pool, and enjoyed one final blood red Tahitian
sunset—a colorful end to fond memories of Tahiti and her islands.
Related Links
Tahiti
Tourism
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